More Audio Ideas
We are a small business that likes to provide service to peoples needs. We are not only a welding and fabricating company, we are much more. We work on all types of cars, and trucks. We can do complete Restores, to the smallest of jobs. If you look below you will find some of the work that we have done, and some how to's that I have found on the internet.
Sunday, December 15, 2013
How to build a custom center console
This is some really cool stuff.
I Really like cars and truck as you can see from this blog. I just want to fill it with some good information on how to work on or build cars, and to also show you that we here at Service Plus and do some of the work for you if needed.
I Really like cars and truck as you can see from this blog. I just want to fill it with some good information on how to work on or build cars, and to also show you that we here at Service Plus and do some of the work for you if needed.
Fiberglass Door Panels Pods
Sound Systems
So you have a great looking car. Now you need a great sound system to go along with it.
So you have a great looking car. Now you need a great sound system to go along with it.
Sunday, December 1, 2013
Saturday, November 30, 2013
1965 Chevy C10 - Punisher
Truckin Magazine, March 01, 2010
Editor's note: In the last two issues, we've shown you how much hard work and talented craftsmanship went into building this creation and now we're happy to present you with the full feature. If you missed any part of the build, be sure to log on to truckinweb.com for a recap.
This truck may look like a shiny black show truck with big wheels, and it is. What it's not, is smoke and mirrors. This truck goes as good, if not better than it looks. Attending shows, you may go home with a Best of Show trophy, or if attending a sanctioned track day, you may go home with a Top 10 finish. Mike Dillon, General Manager of Richard Childress Racing, doesn't believe in "show, but no go", and for this reason, he dropped off a rusted, old '65 Chevy C10 to Jim Smith, of Street Customs and Restorations, in Mooresville, North Carolina. Jim was recruited to make the Chevy street-able, with a stance that looked good supporting 20/22-inch wheels, add a little more power, and it could only be one color, black. Talking with Mike, he laughed and said "the truck started out as a small truck project for me and my sons to cruise around in, but once the chassis was ordered and the engine arrived, well, it's not small anymore."
Arriving in one piece, the '65 Chevy was stripped down, chassis pulled from the cab, and the body set aside. A test fitment was done with the Jim Myer's Racing chassis and with a quick thumbs up, Jim Smith and John Dollard got to work creating one of the nation's finest C10s. In between the framerails lies a GM Performance Parts Ram Jet 502 with 502 hp and 565 lb-ft of torque, mated to a Tremec five-speed tranny. Dressing up the Ram Jet are Billet Specialties pulleys, Street and Performance chromed intake, and one-off air intake with dual filters. Street and Performance block-hugger headers and an MSD ignition give the big-block even more power. Huge Brembo brakes with six-piston calipers were bolted onto each corner to slow the truck from speed, and look impressive behind each custom Foose Nitrous Legend wheel. Rimz One, also in Mooresville, supplied the 20 and 22-inch wheels and wrapped them in BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KDW tires. Even in primer, the C10 was looking the part of a track day warrior, but a little show never hurt anyone, and Jim and the Street Customs' team switched their focus to the body.
After removing the rusted areas and welding in new sheetmetal from LMC Truck, the rest of the body was given special attention. The cab floor was cut for extra tranny clearance, the old, rotted bed floor was scrapped, and the gas filler location was converted into a power antenna. Once the body was media-blasted, hours and hours of sanding and filling were completed before the Sherwin Williams black and red paint were applied. New trim completes the resto-mod-look and chromed bumpers keep the factory appearance. Continuing the factory look, Bruce Horkey's Wood and Parts wood planks and stainless stringers were stained and expertly installed in the bed. Replacing every single nut and bolt on the truck, the SCR team used Totally Stainless fasteners to add structural integrity and beauty in one fell swoop. A single hot-rod mirror was mounted up high so Mike can get a clear view of those he's just lapped. Capping off the body mods, a dual exhaust tip was cut into the body, right in front of the rear tire, and with the electronic cutouts, Mike can either have the unmolested roar of the big-block or a mellower rumble from his hot-rod truck.
Inside the doors, the cab was sprayed with Second Skin insulation material before it was painted to match. Making the cabin even quieter, Dynamat was laid down, as was new black cut-pile carpet, and new weatherstriping. A factory dash was treated to Classic Instrument gauges, Vintage Air A/C vents and controls, and a Kenwood DVD head unit. A Wilwood pedal assembly allows precise braking and shifting, and a Billet Specialties steering wheel keeps the steering inputs both comfortable and stylish. Finishline Interiors, also in Mooresville, built the seats and wrapped them in black and red leather. Simpson race harnesses are mounted to a bolted-in bar behind the plush seats and serve notice to those onlookers that this black beast means business. Also located behind the seats are two JL Audio subs and a JL Audio amp, supplied by Freeman's Car Stereo, that were installed in a stealthy enclosure.
All that was left to do was for Jim and his Street Customs and Restorations' crew to hand the keys to Mike and see how the ol' truck drove. A smoky burnout and an ear-to-ear grin later, the truck passed its maiden voyage and has since been driven to and fro many custom car and truck shows in the area. "It's amazing how well the truck handles, and that thing really goes with more than 500 hp", Mike excitedly tells us. Whether terrorizing the track, beating up unsuspecting people on the street, or winning shows, this truck can literally do it all and do it all very, very well. Using "Who are these guys?", as their shop motto, Jim Smith and his crew use their knowledge and skills of building muscle cars and race cars to exceed a customer's expectations. We're pretty sure after this truck build, the word will get out and their new slogan will have to read, "Yes, we're the guys that built the black C10 in Truckin'."
This truck may look like a shiny black show truck with big wheels, and it is. What it's not, is smoke and mirrors. This truck goes as good, if not better than it looks. Attending shows, you may go home with a Best of Show trophy, or if attending a sanctioned track day, you may go home with a Top 10 finish. Mike Dillon, General Manager of Richard Childress Racing, doesn't believe in "show, but no go", and for this reason, he dropped off a rusted, old '65 Chevy C10 to Jim Smith, of Street Customs and Restorations, in Mooresville, North Carolina. Jim was recruited to make the Chevy street-able, with a stance that looked good supporting 20/22-inch wheels, add a little more power, and it could only be one color, black. Talking with Mike, he laughed and said "the truck started out as a small truck project for me and my sons to cruise around in, but once the chassis was ordered and the engine arrived, well, it's not small anymore."
Arriving in one piece, the '65 Chevy was stripped down, chassis pulled from the cab, and the body set aside. A test fitment was done with the Jim Myer's Racing chassis and with a quick thumbs up, Jim Smith and John Dollard got to work creating one of the nation's finest C10s. In between the framerails lies a GM Performance Parts Ram Jet 502 with 502 hp and 565 lb-ft of torque, mated to a Tremec five-speed tranny. Dressing up the Ram Jet are Billet Specialties pulleys, Street and Performance chromed intake, and one-off air intake with dual filters. Street and Performance block-hugger headers and an MSD ignition give the big-block even more power. Huge Brembo brakes with six-piston calipers were bolted onto each corner to slow the truck from speed, and look impressive behind each custom Foose Nitrous Legend wheel. Rimz One, also in Mooresville, supplied the 20 and 22-inch wheels and wrapped them in BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KDW tires. Even in primer, the C10 was looking the part of a track day warrior, but a little show never hurt anyone, and Jim and the Street Customs' team switched their focus to the body.
After removing the rusted areas and welding in new sheetmetal from LMC Truck, the rest of the body was given special attention. The cab floor was cut for extra tranny clearance, the old, rotted bed floor was scrapped, and the gas filler location was converted into a power antenna. Once the body was media-blasted, hours and hours of sanding and filling were completed before the Sherwin Williams black and red paint were applied. New trim completes the resto-mod-look and chromed bumpers keep the factory appearance. Continuing the factory look, Bruce Horkey's Wood and Parts wood planks and stainless stringers were stained and expertly installed in the bed. Replacing every single nut and bolt on the truck, the SCR team used Totally Stainless fasteners to add structural integrity and beauty in one fell swoop. A single hot-rod mirror was mounted up high so Mike can get a clear view of those he's just lapped. Capping off the body mods, a dual exhaust tip was cut into the body, right in front of the rear tire, and with the electronic cutouts, Mike can either have the unmolested roar of the big-block or a mellower rumble from his hot-rod truck.
All that was left to do was for Jim and his Street Customs and Restorations' crew to hand the keys to Mike and see how the ol' truck drove. A smoky burnout and an ear-to-ear grin later, the truck passed its maiden voyage and has since been driven to and fro many custom car and truck shows in the area. "It's amazing how well the truck handles, and that thing really goes with more than 500 hp", Mike excitedly tells us. Whether terrorizing the track, beating up unsuspecting people on the street, or winning shows, this truck can literally do it all and do it all very, very well. Using "Who are these guys?", as their shop motto, Jim Smith and his crew use their knowledge and skills of building muscle cars and race cars to exceed a customer's expectations. We're pretty sure after this truck build, the word will get out and their new slogan will have to read, "Yes, we're the guys that built the black C10 in Truckin'."
Read more: Here
Start To Finish - Mike Hickman’s 1968 Chevy C10
If NASCAR had started its truck series in the late '60s, the race vehicles might have looked something like Mike Hickman's '68 C10 pickup. Mike, a Corvette fan and enthusiastic racer, bought the Chevy truck in 2009 after a wreck took out his previous hauler. With all his track history, Mike couldn't build just a cruiser, so he joined forces with Hotchkis Sport Suspension and put together a corner-carving race car in the shape of a truck. Here’s how they did it.
03.19.2009
Mike found the orange '68 in Sacramento, California. It had been cosmetically restored but was cruddy underneath and powered by a heavily cammed 383 stroker.
01.07.2010
Initial testing of the C10 demonstrated the expected road handling characteristics of a stock pickup truck.
07.10.2010
Mike left the truck with Hotchkis Sport Suspension, where it was used to prototype and produce a bolt-on upgrade kit that includes components like front and rear sway bars to take care of some of the C10’s body roll. More track testing followed.
06.30.2010
Besides testing at the track, Mike entered the truck in competition and did well, even claiming a few wins, but there were faster trucks out there, and he wanted to do more, so the truck went back to Hotchkis.
01.24.2011
The disassembly is the easy part. Hotchkis took the truck down to the frame. The goal was to improve the handling characteristics by reducing chassis flex.
01.25.2011
While the body was off the frame, Hotchkis used a foam LS motor to determine clearances between the cab and the engine. The desired mounting required notching the firewall.
05.13.2011
Mike chose the Chevy LS3 E-Rod smog-legal crate engine as the powerplant for the C10 build. We asked him why, since as a pre-'76 vehicle the truck was already smog-exempt in California. “In case [the politicians] change the rules,” he answered. “I want to be able to keep driving this truck. Now it’s as clean as any new vehicle.”
05.14.2011
Heavy modifications were made to the C10 frame before reassembly, including cross bracing in the rear, boxing in the front, and notching the crossmember. The E-rod now sits 3 inches lower and 6 inches farther back than on the original 383.
Keeping the weight down was a major focus for Mike. Whenever possible, steel components—like the driveshaft—were replaced with aluminum.
The truck’s original 12-bolt with 4.11 gears and a locker was not especially street friendly, so the build included a new Speedway Engineering Grand National floater assembly made up of a Ford 9-inch housing with floater snouts, solid axles, and other lightweight goodies. Mike has two sets of Currie gears for the rear: 4.11s for racing and 3.25s for the street. He says it’s a 30-minute job to swap ’em.
07.08.2011
The gas tank was replaced with a Rick’s Stainless 18-gallon unit, and the battery was moved to the rear.
03.20.2012
Final testing of the C10 showed massive improvements. Mike says the truck can keep up with modified race cars on the track. And stock muscle cars? They see nothing but tailgate.
07.01.2012
Mike’s truck may handle like a track car, but it still sees plenty of street use. He and his wife, Barbara, drive the pickup to car shows and on cruises, and it is often put to work towing their drag boat.
Running like a go-kart at Adams Kart Track in Ontario, California.
Read more: Here
STREETROD 101: Hot Rod Frame and Chassis Construction
The most informative, 4-1/2 hour hot rod “how to” video ever produced!
So, you’re thinking about building or rebuilding your dream hot rod. Maybe you’ve already purchased some great frame and chassis plans and instructions. Now that you have all that great information there’s just one thing missing — you actually want to see just how an experienced builder goes about each step of the build. If a picture is worth a thousand words, then a really great video is worth a million!
Thanks to hot rod builder par excellence, Bob Hamilton, your prayers have been answered. Get ready to spend literally half a day with Bob as he welcomes you into his shop, lets you look over his shoulder while he builds a hot rod chassis and shares with you one-on-one his accumulated knowledge from decades of hot rod building — the right way.
What’s even better, though, is that everything Bob teaches you in this breakthrough video you can do in your own garage with tools you already have or that are well within the reach of the everyday budget builder. Heck, Bob even tells you how to get it done if you don’t have certain tools. Bob’s objective is to provide you with the information you need to be able to build a Street Rod that will be economic, safe, fun and pleasing in appearance.
The StreetRod 101 DVD follows step-by-step the construction of a perimeter-type frame for a 1928 Ford roadster pickup with an extended cab. However, the techniques illustrated can be used in the construction of virtually any hot rod or street rod chassis, whether it be for a 1927 Model T, a Model A, a ’23 T-Bucket or even a ’32 Ford.
Sit back and follow along as you learn from Bob’s years of hot rod building experience. Here are some of the things you’ll learn about hot rod chassis building in this 4 1/2 hour video:
- How to set up an easy, economic chassis-building table
- How to lay out your chassis dimensions, depending on your body and your engine
- The importance of establishing a “reference point” on your frame rails and putting in temporary studs for one-man measuring
- Importance of rail-to-rail cuts (so you don’t get confused)
- Using angle iron to align frame rails for uniform work
- How to curve your frame rails to the contour of your body using an inexpensive cut-off/grinder and simple puller to make it an easy one-man job
- How to make all your frame contouring cuts the same depth
- How to make angle cuts in rounded edge tubing so that the blade won’t walk off the edge
- How to properly bevel cuts for best weld penetration and strength
- How to correct mistakes in your cutting or welding (hey, it’s part of hot rodding — Bob shows you how to fix it, suck it up and move along)
- The many important uses of angle iron, flat bar and c-clamps in your chassis construction — to save you time and trouble
- How to adapt what Bob illustrates to your own style of hot rod build
- How to properly square the frame
- How to chamfer tubing for welding angled joints and make sure they’re square
- The trick of building frame rails in pairs to ensure proper fit
- How to avoid the dreaded “multiple error concept” that can throw your entire frame out of alignment
- The secret to avoiding days of weld cleaning/grinding when you finish your chassis
- Building a transmission cross member that also strengthens the frame
- Where to get your “almost free” transmission for mock-up
- Learn how to construct a modified K-member
- How to build a fixture to set frame height and level to ensure proper rear end installation
- How to properly set your pinion angle
- How to center your rear end
- Using frame reference pins to square the rear axle
- Installing rear coil-overs at the proper angle, allowing for overall weight and frame drop
- Getting proper clearance for coils from rear axle
- How to make your own shock absorber brackets
- The magic of using reciprocal angles to set rear coil-over position
- How to protect chrome and aluminum when welding
- How to gusset brackets for added stability
- Avoid worry about shear forces on coil-over bolts by “encapsulating” your brackets
- How to avoid rear coil-over shock binding
- The theory of building a chassis with as many adjustments as possible
- The trick of using cardboard to mock up radius rods and pivot points to test movement
- Trick for ensuring you use the correct brackets for rod ends
- See how to make a unique jig and fixture for making your own rod ends using grade 8 bolts and tubing
- How to properly tap your radius rods and/or panhard bars using a home-constructed tap guide bushing
- Discover how to make clamps to hold tubing in your vise better than the vise’s tubing clamp (if it has one) so that you can avoid deep gouge marks in your tubing
- A great lesson on how to properly tap threads
- See how to make your own rear radius rod brackets and make the front one stronger and cleaner looking
- Allowing for paint clearance in your brackets
- How to construct a rear panhard bar
- The technique of building a boxed front crossmember
- How to standardize on common material sizes to make your fabrication quicker and easier
- An innovative fixture to easily line up your spring perch bolt brackets
- How to make your own spring retaining brackets
- How to set up spindles and steering arms and how to build your own steering arms
- The Ackerman steering principle
- How to taper your steering arms for a nice, finished look
- How to build Model-A type front frame horns to really enhance your chassis appearance
- How to make your own “Poor Man’s Flame Cutter” that will save you hundreds of dollars and hours of time
- The cheap and easy cutting barrel to go along with your flame cutter to keep your shop clean and prevent fires
- Build a super-clean looking spreader bar and license plate mount, with a hidden trailer tie-down as a bonus
- Make your own spring pivots using a special bracket to ensure proper weld alignment
- How to properly use a hole saw
- The best starting caster for your front suspension
- Understanding the critical height of spring-on-top-of-axle perches
- How to set the critically important scrub line (both front and rear) during your chassis construction for safe driving later and which is the better of two ways of measuring scrub line
- Determining the correct length for your tie rod and how to build it
- Building bat wing radius rod brackets
- How to fit radius rod brackets when they go on the s-curve of a dropped tube front axle
- How to make sure your tie rod doesn’t hit a radius rod bracket
- How to make up for the inadequacies of your plywood chassis construction table and weight builds up on your chassis
- Learn to make fixtures to adjust and mount your radius rod brackets to your front axle and chassis
- How to easily make wishbone or hairpin radius rods and a simple bending fixture for making them
- Discover a fixture for ensuring your radius rods are welded straight and proper
- Build your own front shock brackets
- Learn how to set proper shock absorber length and angle
- Build your own engine and transmission mounts
- Discover the easy way to established true distributor to firewall clearance
- The easiest way to position your engine during chassis construction
- How to “hide” a Vega steering box
- The right way to cut out a firewall so that you can actually change your automatic transmission if the time comes
- Make the right template for floor clearance of your transmission
- Build a unique exhaust system that features adjustable glasspack mufflers just by unbolting and reversing them
- Learn the easiest way to cut exhaust tubing
- How to set proper muffler clearance to avoid hot floorboards
- How to use mandrel bends to fabricate your own exhaust system
- Build your own rear exhaust supports
- Building radiator mounts and support brackets, plus some comments on choosing the right radiator style
- How to mount the grille shell to the radiator and how to “fill the gaps” to make it look better
- Using elastomeric cushioning to reduce undue radiator vibration and potential fractures
- How to add an overflow tank that doesn’t look like an afterthought
- Everything you ever wanted to know about Deuce grille shells and radiators
- Where and how to mount headlights and turn signals and how to conceal the wires
- Mounting frame-through brake lines
- How to engineer your driveline
- How to cut and shorten a driveshaft at home without a lathe and save big bucks
- How to ensure your driveshaft is properly aligned and in-phase
- Overview of brake and master pedal assemblies, including power booster
- The importance of brake pedal ratio and what works best on hot rods
- Plus, a world of jigs, fixtures, tips and tricks that will have you enjoying and learning from this DVD over and over and over!
Wow, that looks like a lot of information — and that’s why it takes this huge 4-1/2 hour DVD package to cover it all!
Now, here’s a real treat! Some may wonder what to expect of the DVD in terms of production values and quality, having been burned by bad DVDs in the past. Others may wonder what the final product for which the chassis is being built looks like. Therefore, we’re happy to present below a nice little 6 minute, 44 second video you can view online where you get to meet Bob Hamilton as he gives you a “tour” of the finished 1928 Ford Model A roadster pickup that was built on the frame and suspension that are the subject of the 4-1/2 hour DVD.(None of this content is duplicated in the DVD you will receive). You should also note that the “tour” of the car video here doesn’t include any closeup frame and chassis video shots, while the StreetRod 101: Hot Rod Frame and Chassis Construction DVD includes loads of closeup detail so that you can easily duplicate what Bob shows you. So, sit back and enjoy — and then click that “Buy Now!” button below to get started with your own frame and chassis building.
Of course, the embedded video above isn’t nearly as sharp and clear as the DVD you’ll get but it gives you a pretty good idea just how good it really is. What you will really appreciate and find valuable in this incomparable DVD is the fact that Bob Hamilton is no prima donna builder. Bob takes the time to show you how to correct mistakes, because as he says, “they’re part of street rod building — you just suck it up, fix them and move along.”
Quite honestly, this is the most clear, informative, motivating and inspiring hot rod building video I have ever seen. We’ve tried to cover the vast volume of knowledge you’ll receive and you’ll be glad to know it’s an incredible bargain!
You get all of this promptly delivered to your mailbox on a high quality, four and one-half hour DVD that you will use regularly and treasure for a lifetime for only $24.95, plus only $4 shipping and handling ($7 international). But, if you’re not one of the fortunate hot rodders who also owns Bob’s other great DVDs, read on for an even better offer.
Here’s your even better offer. You can get this new DVD set along with one of the other two great StreetRod 101 DVD sets, Fiberglass Body Modifications or Fiberglass Body Work and Paint for only $44.95, plus just $5 shipping (international shipping, only $10 for both). That’s a $7.95 savings over the individual order plus shipping price.
Or, for the best deal get all 3 DVD sets for just $63.95, plus $6 shipping ($14 international). That’s a big $16.90 savings over the individual order and shipping costs!
Just pick the deal you want to take advantage of below and click on the appropriate “Sign Up” button below for your choice to securely purchase through PayPal and your DVDs will be promptly on their way to you.
Go here to see more, and get your Video's
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